How NOT to Save Money with Your Working Dog Part I

Spring is in the air and so are fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, and other unsavory critters that not only make your dogs itch, but can pass on disease as well.  Invariably this time of year, people start looking into buying popular preventatives.  Seeing that online pharmacies market heavily towards pet owners, you may ask yourself, why buy my dog's heartworm prevention or flea/tick meds from my vet if I can save some money buying them cheaper online?

First, they are often  not necessarily cheaper.  I'm a housecall vet and I do not carry a large inventory of these products, but I do carry the generic form of Heartgard as well as Frontline spray.  I continually price shop online to get my clients the best price so they are priced the same as any of the online pharmacies.  There is a perception that they are cheaper, with promises of "free shipping" and coupons, but they are often marked up to mark down.  Ask your vet if they will match prices if they aren't already.

Second, if you look on the box of many of these products, they will say "for sale by licensed veterinarians only."  So if veterinarians are the only ones who are supposed to sell these products, how do they end up on 1-800 Pet Meds or Amazon.com?  Typically through diverted product.  Most companies state they do not sell to non-veterinary distributors, so what often happens is either staff are literally stealing product from the veterinary hospitals to resell or veterinarians no longer in practice may also purchase huge quantities from distributors just to resell them to these companies.  They also may come from other countries (many report they have different labels or stickers over the top of the original label).  Other products such as probiotics and joint supplements labeled only for sale through vets may be purchased in large quantities to get good prices, but they end up being about to expire, so a less than legit clinic or staff may sell them on Amazon.  A bottle of Dasuquin that is supposed to last 5 months that expires in a few weeks is not particularly ideal.

Another reason to purchase products from your veterinarian and not from online is that if you have a problem or your dog has a reaction, the reputable manufacturers will typically pay for some or all of the treatment.  For instance, I once had a client whose collie had a strong reaction to Advantage Multi, even at an appropriate dose for collies and even though he had been on other types of heartworm prevention before.  I am not married by any means to Bayer (the maker of Advantage Multi), but they did compensate me so I could treat the dog since the product came from me.  If the client would have purchased it online from one of these other outlets, it would have cost her well over $1000 to treat.

In addition, the reputable companies will also pay for heartworm treatment if your dog comes down with heartworm disease and you can prove your dog has been on it and purchased from a licensed veterinarian.  Heartworm treatment usually costs anywhere from $500 to well over $1000, so while heartworm resistance is still quite uncommon, it is worthwhile to get the legitimate product rather than trying to dose it yourself with cattle ivermectin or with product from an online pharmacy that has no guarantee from the company.  Also ask your veterinarian if any of the products they recommend are currently running specials for rebates or free doses.  This often brings the price to very reasonable levels as competitive if not more so than online pharmacies.

Lately I have also been seeing many posts on Facebook about mixing up homemade remedies to keep away fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes.  Unfortunately, these are typically only marginally effective and have to be applied multiple times per day per animal at best.  Two weeks ago, I had a client who used a natural remedy out of essential oils to apply on her dogs.  Both ended up testing positive for ehrlichia, a tick borne disease.  Although I am a holistic vet myself, these home remedies do not typically work as well.

Lastly, remember that your local vet is also likely a local small business.  Unless they are owned by Banfield or VCA, they are likely locally owned with locally employed staff and work hard to provide the best care for your animals.  It is harder and harder to compete with the "big box stores" and many clients don't always perceive how much overhead goes into keeping a clinic running.  Support your local vet and they will be there for you to provide excellent care for your working dogs. 

For more information on the FDA's recommendations concerning online pharmacies, see the following link:

http://www.fda.gov/forconsumers/consumerupdates/ucm048164.htm

Intro to Canine Sports Medicine

Here is a great podcast by Dr. Joe Wakshlag on an introduction to canine sports medicine.  Dr. Wakshlag is board certified in clinical nutrition and sports medicine/rehabilitation.  He has personal experience with running sled dogs.  

http://www.akcchf.org/news-events/multimedia/podcasts/intro-to-canine-sports.html

The Spring Itchies

Spring means pollen, fleas, ticks, swimming, and all sorts of things that make dogs itch.  We hear from clients these days that their dogs have allergies, but what does that really mean?  Simply put, an allergy is an over reaction by the body's immune system to something it perceives.  The three most common reasons for allergies are fleas, environmental allergies (also called atopy), and food allergy.  This post will break down each category.

	Flea
What causes it?	Allergic reaction to saliva of the flea when it bites
What does it look like?	Very persistent itching or chewing on flanks, lower back, tail
Diagnosis	Presence of fleas, flea dirt on pet or in the house
How to treat it	Many products available.  Unfortunately many natural products are not efficacious with heavy infestation
How to prevent it	Flea combs, monthly preventative especially during warm months of year
Other points	Do not have to see fleas!  Just takes one bite!

	Environmental
What causes it?	Allergy to nearly anything in the environment
What does it look like?	May be localized hot spot or can be generalized.  Often seasonal.  May end up with secondary bacterial or fungal infections
Diagnosis	Intradermal skin testing with a dermatologist
How to treat it	May require antibiotics/anti-fungals to get secondary infections down, omega 3 fatty acids, special shampoos, probiotics, diet trial, antihistamines, judicious use of steroids or immunosuppressants in some cases
How to prevent it	Avoid contact with the allergen.  Keep them on hard floors or vacuum religiously.  Use HEPA filters.  Rise feet/legs after walks
Other points	Also called atopy.  May also have some food allergy component to it as well

	Food
What causes it?	Immune system response to proteins in the food
What does it look like?	Vomiting, diarrhea, ear infections, hot spots, red belly, paws, or ears
Diagnosis	Strict novel protein/carb elimination diet for 8-12 weeks.  Note: the food allergy blood test is NOT reliable!  Too many false negatives/positives
How to treat it	Elimination diet, slowly add in potential allergens back in
How to prevent it	Avoid all forms of that particular food, including treats and heartworm meds.  Raw vs cooked may help, but not necessarily
Other points	Food allergies & intolerances are not the same thing, but present almost identically.  Always save at least one relatively obtainable protein source for testing.

The Effects of Vests on Heat Related Injuries in Working Dogs

An interesting study done by the University of Florida:

http://news.health.ufl.edu/2012/19118/colleges/college-of-veterinary-medicine/uf-study-looks-at-role-of-vests-in-heat-related-illness-of-working-dogs/

Article on Common Working Dog Injuries

This is a nice, if somewhat technical, article on working dog injuries.  I especially like how it covers injuries of the shoulders and elbows, as many people tend to focus most closely on the hind end.

http://veterinarymedicine.dvm360.com/vetmed/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=768613&pageID=1&sk=&date=

Pre Purchase Exams

When purchasing a puppy, most working/performance dog people know to make sure the pup's parents have passed health clearances that depend on the breed.  But what if you have your eye on an adult dog to purchase? The dog appears like they can do the work and they have a nice pedigree.  But are they a sound investment?  Horse owners are used to do pre purchase exams on their prospective performance animals.  Working dog owners should do the same.  Here are some pre purchase examination recommendations.  While these may cost you several hundred dollars up front, they may save you the same amount or more in headache and vet bills later on.

-Full physical exam:  Your veterinarian will examine the dog head to tail to make sure something is not obviously wrong
-Radiographs (x-rays):  Somewhat dependent on the breed, but all dogs should have their hips and elbows radiographed to make sure there are no issues.  50% of dogs with radiographic evidence of hip dysplasia show no obvious signs.  This one is a biggie!  What if the dog already had them done with a previous owner? It is not a bad idea to recheck to make sure there is not some other reason the dog might be unscrupulously being put up for sale
-Heartworm test:  Heartworms are a major medical problem to fix and an expensive one.  Dogs can also die from the treatment, so a simple test before will be very helpful.  Many heartworm tests also test for tick borne diseases that can cause serious systemic disease, such as Lyme disease and Ehrlichia.
-Fecal test:  Internal parasites such as roundworms can easily be spread into your home or kennel by a new introduction.  They are also extremely difficult to remove from the environment once they establish themselves.    It will also look for common causes of diarrhea, such as giardia and coccidia.  Getting the prospective dog a fecal floation test as well as on monthly heartworm preventative (which also treats intestinal worms) is important not only for the dog, but your other dogs and even other people in the household since roundworms and hookworms can be transmitted to people.

These are some guidelines of  things to ask your vet to investigate before agreeing to a sale.  With certain breeds, other genetic testing or examination may need to be done.  For example, German shepherds should be testing for degenerative myelopathy (a cheek swab test) and collie breeds should be given an opthalmic exam to look for diseases like progressive retinal atrophy (PRA).  If a male dog is going to be purchased as a potential stud dog, make sure to also schedule a breeding soundness exam to ensure his semen is of good quality.  While these tests involve more cost up front, they will save you money on a dud dog in the long run.

"But it doesn't seem to bother him..."

As a vet, I hear this phrase all the time, whether from working/performance dog folks or from pet owners.  It can be anything from dental pain to allergies to arthritis.  Owners tend to think "well, they aren't really crying out in pain when they are doing their job and they're still eating, so it must not be that bad..."  I want to caution people that just because they are not in agony, doesn't mean they are not in pain or that it's not causing a decrease in their quality of life or working performance.  If you are walking with a limp, you are likely in pain.  If you have a nerve exposed from a fractured tooth, you are likely in pain.  If you have a subluxated hip from a malformed joint, you are likely in pain.  You may be still able to function on some level, but it's not a great way to live.

We cannot ask a dog how much pain they are in, but we definitely know they suffer from pain.  Pain also increases stress, which increases cortisol (a stress hormone) and can interfere with the immune system and decrease healing.  Veterinary medicine has advanced significantly in its use of multi-modal pain management over the years and it doesn't need to be very expensive either.  So if a dog has a bad tooth or is limping or is even itching excessively (which would drive many people crazy), get it checked out!  If you don't feel your dog's pain is being addressed, be proactive with your vet and don't be afraid to ask if there's anything else that you can try.  If you don't have a vet that is progressive with pain management, get a second opinion.

My Vaccine Philosophy

I originally wrote this for my clients who asked about my vaccine protocols and it evolved into something a bit longer.  I am posting it hear for anyone who is interested.  Though I removed most of the cat information (since this is primarily a dog blog), you can find the cat information here:


http://www.rightathomevetcare.com/vaccines.html


Introduction:
Vaccines have saved countless human and animal lives and prevented many serious and fatal diseases.  But vaccines are not 100% benign either.  Although rare, vaccines can sometimes cause sarcomas in cats and immune mediated hemolytic anemia (IMHA) in dogs along with the more common anaphylactic reactions.  While largely unproven in veterinary medicine, some are quick to point their fingers at vaccines for a myriad of other diseases and conditions, including allergies, seizures, and behavior problems.  Some breeders and owners are now very proud of the fact their dogs are not ever vaccinated.  So do we throw the baby out with the bath water?

As a holistic veterinarian that also looks at things with a scientific perspective, my conclusion is to look at the individual.  I use vaccines judiciously.  I also believe that not every pet is going to require the same vaccines and a cookie cutter approach for all animals is not the right way to go.  As a veterinarian and a guardian of public health, I do not make the rules, but I must follow them.  So what vaccines are required by law?  Typically only rabies, so we will discuss rabies first.  In the state of Missouri, dogs and cats must be vaccinated every 3 years and ferrets must be vaccinated every year.  In addition, though vaccines carry certain risks, no life of an animal is worth that of a human if a child bitten by a rabid animal (domestic or wild) that could have been prevented.  The following is a video of a child in southeast Asia who contracted rabies.  It is not an easy video to watch.

Child with Rabies

However, this is reality for the 55,000 people worldwide who contract rabies and die from this nearly always fatal disease.  In North America, we usually think of wild animals such as skunks, bats, foxes, and raccoons having rabies, but in most other countries, dogs are the most likely animal to spread rabies to humans.1  The reason so few people in the United States contract rabies is the successful vaccination of our pets.

Before getting into what I recommend in my practice, let's discuss some terminology.

Antigen: a foreign substance that the immune system recognizes as a potential threat to the body.  This can include anything from bacteria, viruses, and fungi to pollens and things in the environment that cause allergies.

Antibody:  a protein produced by the immune system used to identify foreign antigen.  Antibodies help the body's immune system identify antigens faster and help prevent disease before it takes hold in the body.
Vaccine:  a biological agent composed up of antigen introduced in the body to stimulate the immune system into producing antibody.  Vaccines are usually for viruses and bacteria.  Note that vaccines or natural immunity from previous exposure to the infectious agent do NOT prevent infection (so called "sterilizing immunity"), but prevent disease in the body by allowing the immune system to recognize infectious agents faster and make it less likely that the patient becomes sick.

Modified/Attenuated Live Vaccines (MLV):  These vaccines have been cultured in a way to prevent them from becoming virulent while still causing a more robust immune system response and better antibody production.  Canine distemper and feline rhinotracheitis virus (herpes virus) are examples of commone modified live vaccines.

Killed Vaccines:  These vaccines have the infectious agent in them killed so they cannot resort back to virulence.  This is important in viruses such as rabies.  Killed vaccines do not stimulate as robust of an immune system response as a modified live vaccine and contain adjuvant.

Recombinant Vaccines:  These vaccines use a newer technology to mix or "recombine" the DNA of the desired organism into a less harmful organism.  Examples of this are the newer feline leukemia and feline rabies vaccines.  Recombinant vaccines do not contain adjuvant.

Adjuvant:  an additional component of vaccines that is used to "irritate" the immune system into a stronger response.  These are typically used in killed vaccines such as rabies vaccine because killed vaccine is not recognized as strongly by the immune system as modified/attenuated live vaccine.  The use of adjuvant is controversial due to the ability to cause vaccine associated sarcomas in some cats.

Thimerosol:  An organomercury preservative added to certain vaccines.  Its use is controversial in both human and veterinary vaccines.

Dosing Tank:  The vials the vaccines come in.  When vaccine is manufactured, they come in either multidose tanks or single dose tanks.

Antibody Titer:  An estimate of the amount of antibody to a particular disease causing agent such as a virus or bacteria that the body has made.  Usually done by a blood test sent to a laboratory.  Can be used to judge if a patient has an appropriate level of antibodies to fight off a disease.  However, levels of antibody that are protective are controversial and an animal with a low level still might not come down with the disease (antibodies are not the only mechanism of defense in the immune system).  Conversely, some animals with a high level of antibody may still come down with the diease.  Titers are generally used as guidelines on whether or not to revaccinate.

Maternal Antibody:  Depending on the species, some animals pass on a certain amount of antibody to their offspring via the placenta and through nursing (dogs and cats) and have maternal antibodies present if the mother was previously vaccinated.  Other species, such as horses, have very little maternal antibody at birth and foals rely solely on taking in their mother's colostrum by nursing around the time of birth.  In dogs and cats, the time the maternal antibody decreases is highly variable.  They may wane at 5 weeks or at 20 weeks.  We vaccinate puppies and kittens in a series to make sure they can form their own antibody when the maternal antibodies have declined to protect from potentially fatal disease like parvo and distemper virus.

Herd Immunity:  This is the idea that a certain percentage of a population (be it dog, cat, cattle, humans, etc) must be immune to an infectious contagious disease either through natural immunity through exposure to the infectious agent or vaccination in order to "spare" the individuals who have not been exposed.  Outbreaks tend to happen when fewer animals are vaccinated.  The exact percentage that needs to be immunized to offer some protective herd immunity differs by disease, but is typically at least 75% of the population.

Core & Non-Core Vaccines:  Recommendations from the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA)2 and the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP)3 on which vaccines (beyond rabies by law) that our pets should or should not get based on their lifestyle.  Core vaccines are designated such because of the highly contagious and possibly fatal nature of the diseases, while non-core vaccines will depend on geographic area and what the animal is exposed to.  Other non-core vaccines are designated this way because their vaccines

My Philosophy:

In my practice, I want to use the best technology for my patients and make sure they are protected while minimizing the risk of vaccine reactions as much as possible.  While I feel they are better products, they are typically more expensive than the older versions both for me and for the client, but I feel it is worthwhile to keep our pets protected while minimizing risks.

I prefer to use single dose tanks.  The reason for this is that I want to be sure that even if the vaccine is properly mixed that the patient received the correct amount of antigen in the vaccine:  not too much and not too little.  These are typically more expensive than multidose tanks.

I also prefer to use 3 year thimerosol free killed rabies vaccine as this is currently the best technology on the market for dogs.  In cats, the best technology for rabies and feline leukemia uses recombinant canary pox vaccines.  At this time, this particular vaccine is only approved for once a year but they do not contain adjuvant, which is a big plus for cats.

I recommend spreading vaccines out with a minimum of two weeks in between this is for several reasons.  First, if a dog or cat has a reaction to a vaccine, I want to know which type.  I also want to make sure the body is not overwhelmed with antigens all at once and has sufficient time to develop antibodies.  I also give vaccines in specific locations.  The older way was to give all vaccines between the shoulders at the pet's scruff.  Now the recommended way is to give them in specific locations, such as rabies=right rear and feline leukemia=left rear, so you know which vaccine did what if there is a problem.

For other vaccines, I tend to follow the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) and American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) recommendations for "core" and "non-core" vaccines.  While every dog and cat is different, I have essentially two approaches:  a more "standard" approach and a more holistic approach.  They are as follows for dogs and cats.

Core Dog Vaccine Protocol (Most Pet Dogs):

8 weeks:

DA2PP (distemper/adenovirus type 2/parvovirus/parainfluenza) MLV

12 weeks:

DA2PP MLV

14 weeks:

Rabies (thimerosol free) as by law (must be done by 3 months per the city of Columbia)

16 weeks:

DA2PP MLV

20 weeks:

Distemper/parvo titer if desired
Twelve Months Later:

Rabies (thimerosol free, start of 3 year rabies)
Distemper/parvo titer (if low, re-vaccinate 2-4 weeks after rabies)

Four Years (and every three years after):

Rabies (thimerosol free, 3 year)
Distemper/parvo titer if desired (if low, re-vaccinate 2-4 weeks after rabies)

Non-Core Dog Vaccine Protocol:

As explained earlier, non-core vaccines will depend on the dog's lifestyle and exposure.  A field trial or coonhunting dog might benefit from leptospirosis while a conformation dog that is at dog shows every weekend may benefit from bordetella, particularly if the dog is required to have this vaccination for shows, classes, grooming, and so on.  Some vaccines, such as corona or giardia, have low efficacy or the disease they are trying to protect from is fairly self limiting.  For these reasons, they are not generally recommended at this time.

Dental Care for the Working and Performance Dog

Anything from retrieving game to biting a decoy, our working and performance dogs use their mouths a lot!  We have a lot invested in their chompers, so it makes sense to keep them in as good as shape as possible.  A very small amount of prevention is worth a considerable amount of money later on.  I recommend brushing a dog's teeth every day (or every other day at the least), particularly for working and performance breeds since their teeth are so critical to their function.  I like using a veterinary specific tooth paste.  These come in a variety of flavors from beef and poultry to the rather pleasant vanilla mint (which my dogs happen to really like) and are safe to be swallowed in small amounts, unlike human tooth pastes.  I also prefer using an inexpensive electric toothbrush such as a Crest Spinbrush instead of a manual brush.  It seems dogs are often more tolerant of the electric toothbrushes than the manual brushes once they get used to the vibrations because they can be moved slowly back and forth across the teeth instead of lots of small motions.  Finger brushes don't tend to work as effectively, but they can be used to introduce dogs to the sensation.  It's always best to start poking around a dog's mouth when they are pups so they get used to it.  Using a finger brush or plain finger, put a small amount of the dog toothpaste on the end of your finger and let your pup lick it off to get used to the taste.  Gradually let the dog get used to the feeling of touching their lips, gums, and teeth and always keep it positive with treats.
.
So what do you do when good teeth go bad?  Veterinarians use very similar tools as in human dentistry to work on teeth, so dental care for animals has really advanced considerably.  Particularly if a dog uses their mouth for their job, I aggressively recommend they see the vet and a specialist if possible.  A board certified member of the American College of Veterinary Dentistry has done extensive post graduate training on animal dentistry and particularly with high performing police or bite sport dogs, these are who I recommend to see.  A listing of the members of the ACVD is found here:

http://www.avdc-dms.org/dms/list/diplomates.cfm?CFID=11914566&CFTOKEN=43585871

Let's also consider some nutritional links.  There is a long standing myth that kibble helps clean or scrub the teeth better than canned food.  This is absolutely not true.  Studies have shown approximately 85% of dogs over the age of 3 years old have periodontal disease and most dogs eat dry kibble.  It would be like brushing your teeth with toast.  Not very helpful!  It can pick up slowly and insidiously, but many dogs are likely in a good bit of pain and discomfort from unhealthy mouths on a lifetime of kibble.  So please brush those teeth!

You may say, "but my dog is on a raw diet and their teeth look great!  Why do I need to brush?"  This is an excellent question.  Though many dogs have very nice clean teeth on a predominantly raw diet, they also are at risk for fractures from the bones in the diet if it is not ground.  Larger weight bearing bones or "recreational" bones (or antlers and hooves!) are common culprits.  Some dogs also like to chew on sticks, rocks, their kennels, and crates, which can also fracture teeth.  Fractures to the canines and the fourth (largest) premolar are not at all uncommon.  Brushing your dog's teeth regularly allows you to check for inflamed gums (gingivitis) and any masses in the mouth (which often can be malignant tumors) as well as fractured teeth.  Fractured teeth are a problem because not only can they be extremely painful with the pulp cavity and nerves exposed, but infections can move up into the area and cause abscesses.  These are painful and may even erode the bone of the jaws, making them more likely to fracture.

A fractured tooth needs to be evaluated as soon as possible as there are ways to save the tooth, including a root canal (which keeps the tooth's place, even if it is no longer viable) or a crown amputation/vital pulpotomy (which reduces the height of the crown, or visible part of the tooth, so it can't break off further, and saves the pulp of the tooth).  A vital pulpotomy is a dental emergency and must be performed within 3 days to save the tooth.  In most pet dogs, the fractured or diseased tooth is often best left extracted so it will not cause further discomfort.  But in dogs that use their mouths, particularly bite work dogs, extracting large teeth like a canine or fourth premolar with big roots is much more risky since the tooth (both crown and root) must be pulled out.  On a large tooth, this means the root will no longer have as much support to the bones in the jaw, making a fractured jaw more likely.  A vital pulpotomy or root canal is a better choice for working dogs.  Because a fractured tooth must be addressed right away, if you are brushing and inspecting your dog's teeth each day, you can head off major problems before it starts interfering with the dog's work and health.

Lastly we can discuss routine cleaning of the teeth.  This must happen under general anesthesia for several reasons (and this is why an "anesthesia free dental" is a very poor substitute for a full cleaning).  First, the process involves a good bit of poking and prodding that many dogs just don't tolerate.  A hand scaler can lacerate the gums and the dog can subsequently bite the person trying to do the "cleaning."  The ultrasonic scaler uses a lot of water and a high pitched noise, which most all dogs would find very annoying and would not likely hold still for.  To have a complete cleaning, we inspect and clean above and below the gum line, which we are not able to do with an awake dog.  We can only access the easily visible parts during a hand scaling and not above the gum line, so the result is cosmetic at best.  The ultrasonic or hand scaler also leaves microscopic scratches in the enamel of the tooth that must be polished off when completed, otherwise the calculus simply builds back up even faster.  This is a similar process with how your teeth are polished after your dentist is done with their cleaning.  For these reasons, the ACVD has a position statement why "anesthesia free dentals" are nothing more than "tooth grooming."

http://www.avdc.org/dentalscaling.html

In other words, if your dog's teeth need attention, consult your veterinarian or a board certified veterinary dentist on how to best keep their teeth looking and feeling their best.

Paw and Pad Care

There's an infamous saying in horses:  no hoof, no horse.  In working and performance dogs, it is very similar.  I was at attendance at the U-FLI Tournament of Champions this past weekend as the show vet and was reminded of this principle.  Flyball and other hard driving sports and activities (lure coursing, sled dog racing, agility, hunting, hiking) can really do a number on your dog's paw pads.  First, let's discuss the anatomy of the paw.  Each toe has a corresponding pad as well as a pad on the "palm" of the foot called the metacarpal (front feet) or metatarsal (back feet) pad.  The carpal or "stop pad" is located on the front legs at the level of the carpus (wrist) and the dew claws.  Both the metacarpal/tarsal pads and the stop pads are particularly prone to abrasions.

The most common cause is either intense stop and go activity over a hard surface (ex:  flyball, chasing tennis balls on concrete) or overuse (ex:  hunting, hiking, or dog sledding over rough or icy terrain, especially without conditioning).  Unfortunately treating sore feet like paw abrasions are not an overnight fix as they are somewhat similar to a blister on the bottom of your feet.  Prevention and gradual conditioning will be the best way to avoid pad abrasions.  There are products such as Tuf-Foot and Musher's Secret that have been out for a long time to try to either toughen up or protect the foot that be worth trying.  Flyball competitors often wrap with vet wrap and tape around the carpus to protect the stop pads and declaws.  Please note that unlike horses, dogs have considerable more soft tissue in the lower leg than horses, so do not wrap the vet wrap too snugly and remove shortly after the race.  Specially made dog skid boots might be a better alternative.  

So what do you do after a long hike or hunting trip and your dog comes up lame?  Inspect the feet very carefully, looking for burrs, thorns, cactus needles, ice balls, dried mud, and so on.  Keeping a pair of hemostats to pull out the offending object may be very helpful, particularly when trying to grab it without poking yourself.  Clean the area thoroughly with soapy water and rinse.  If my dogs have a pad abrasion, I like to have them stand in a 2 quart plastic pitcher or small bucket with a warm water soak to remove excess debris and dirt, then stand again in dilute chlorhexidine solution (Hibiclens, which can be found at Walgreens or Walmart).  The sore pad can be LIGHTLY bandaged if desired, but the best solution is to crate the dog so they will rest.  The issue with some bandages is doing it too tight, which causes swelling and discomfort and even necrosis of the tissue if untreated long enough.  If you decide to bandage the feet, make sure to leave at least two toes visible so you can check for swelling and either too warm or too cold in the toes.  Some dogs will also shred and eat the bandaging material, which is never desirable.  Ask your veterinarian for pain medication for a few days if the dog is especially tender or has difficulty walking.  An infant sock can be helpful to taking the dog out to relieve themselves.  There are now quite a few brands of booties available to try as well at various retailers.

For pad lacerations, these can be very, very challenging to treat because almost any movement can break them open again.  They make take multiple times of suturing and bandaging before successfully healing.  Patience and rest is the most important thing with both pad abrasions and lacerations.

How We Interpret Bloodwork

If you've ever gotten bloodwork back on one of your dogs either as part of a wellness screening tool or if your dog was ill and wondered what in the world all those values meant, this is a neat little cheat sheet that explains what they mean.

http://veterinarybusiness.dvm360.com/vetec/data/articlestandard//vetec/392011/740627/article.pdf

Canine Performance Nutrition: An Overview

This is a paper I wrote for a nutrition elective rotation I took in March 2011.  I am posting it as I believe many might find it interesting.  I'll be posting more on nutrition in the future.  Enjoy!

***

While the majority of dogs in developed nations enjoy fairly sedentary lives, more and more owners are including their canine companions in a variety of activities and sports.  Dogs now commonly join their owners to compete in the newer sports of agility, flyball, and dock diving.  Performance events such as herding, protection, hunting, and sledding remain popular and blur the lines between work and play for dogs and their handlers.  In addition, dogs provide a valuable service to military, law enforcement, and the community through patrol work, scent detection, and search and rescue efforts.  While nutrition is not a substitute for the correct genetics, training, and conditioning of performance dogs, many owners are very interested in the nutritional needs of their canine athlete.  To reach peak performance through optimal nutrition, owners and veterinarians should calculate the caloric needs, consider a diet that complements the performance expected based on the components of the food, and develop a feeding plan that optimizes peak performance.

Most nutritional studies of canine athletes have traditionally focused on the sports of dog racing and dog sledding.  The two average participants in these activities are greyhounds and husky-type dogs respectively.   Greyhound racing is a highly anaerobic sport that short in duration which is reflected in the type IIa fast twitch muscle fibers that dominate a greyhound’s lean muscle mass (Hill 1998), while some dog sled races such as the Iditarod are over one thousand of miles in length covered over the course of up to two weeks.  Most other canine activities fall somewhere in between these two extremes, with sports like agility and flyball being more similar to sprint racing and hunting field trials and ranch livestock work of several days duration being more similar to sledding (Toll et al. 2010).  Understanding the nature of the activity that the canine athlete is participating in is crucial for making nutritional recommendations to the owner.

In deciding a nutrition plan for a canine athlete, it is helpful to understand some of the differences in how food is utilized by the body depending on the type of exercise.  Parallels between the nutritional needs of human and canine sprinters versus marathon runners are commonly made in comparative studies of exercise physiology, though the dog in general is better suited to oxidative metabolism of fats and dogs metabolize free fatty acids at twice the rate as humans (Hill 1998).  However, most sources suggest that as in humans, sprinters such as greyhounds do best with higher levels of carbohydrates to mobilize glucose during short durations of exertion; in contrast, endurance runners such as sled dogs or hunting dogs may exhaust their stores of glycogen and may have improved performance on high protein, high fat, and low carbohydrate foods (Hill 1998).  Different studies have also shown hematological effects such as “training-induced anemia” (Hill 1998) and decrease in total protein in serum (Hinchcliff 2000) before and after strenuous prolonged exercise in sled dogs that may be exacerbated if the protein levels are not moderately high, though one smaller non-cross over study showed a vegetarian- based food did not significantly alter either blood values or performance of short distance sprint racing huskies (Brown 2009).  

In addition to the basic components of the food, meeting but not exceeding the energy requirements of canine athletes can be challenging both in the trial season and in the off season.  As most greyhounds run only a short distance at a high intensity level every few days, most sources suggest that their caloric requirements are likely similar to other moderately active dogs with a life stage factor of 1.6.  On the other extreme, long distance sled dogs may require a life stage factor of over 10 not only due to physical exertion, but because of extremely cold environmental conditions (Hand et al. 2010).  A highly calorically dense diet is required to meet the needs of the long distance sled dog.  Owners and kennel workers should be aware that feeding to these levels in the off season is not advised and that they may return the dog to a lower plane of nutrition after the training and trial season is over or risk gaining an undesirable amount of weight.  Dogs that compete in other short but explosive sports such as flyball and agility are likely closer to greyhounds in their need for caloric intake and will likely not need a large increase in their rations during competition season.  Herding, police, and hunting dogs would likely be in between the extremes of caloric requirements.

Some special considerations of certain canine athletes (racing dogs, sled dogs, and hunting dogs) may include oxidative stress both from the physical exertion itself and the addition of extra animal or plant based fat sources for energy (Pasquini et al. 2010, Hinchcliff et al. 2000).  Supplementation of 400 IU of vitamin E beyond what is in typical commercially available diets have been suggested by some authors to account for the loss of antioxidants from the stress of heavy exercise and oxidation of high levels of dietary fats for sled dogs (Reinhart et al.).   In addition, dogs that rely heavily on their olfactory sense, such as detection or search and rescue dogs, may benefit from fatty acids in their diets.  Not only are certain PUFAs  anti-inflammatory, but scent detection relies on the olfactory epithelium, of which fatty acids are integrated as components of the cell membrane (Toll 2010).  As a general rule, many “weekend warrior” types of canine athletes that accompany their owners to the hiking trails or to an agility trial may not need special dietary supplements as long as their nutritional requirements are being met by feeding a high quality commercially prepared diet.  Other canine athletes such as hunting dogs or sled dogs may be fairly sedentary during all but the competition seasons when they are asked to perform strenuous and prolonged exercise at high levels.  Diet changes both at the onset and peak times of training should be gradual if possible.  It should be communicated to owners that while nutrition is vital, training, conditioning, and genetics will be of greater value for performance than supplements or special diets. 

Works Cited

Brown WY, Vanselow BA, Redman AJ, et al.  An experimental meat-free diet maintained haematological characteristics in sprint-racing sled dogs.  Br J Nutr 2009; 102:1318-23.

Hinchcliff KW, Reinhart GA, DiSilvestro R, et al.  Oxidant stress in sled dogs subjected to repetitive endurance exercise.  Am J Vet Res 2000; 61:512-17.

Hill RC. The nutritional requirements of exercising dogs.   J Nutr 1998; 128:2686S–2690S.

Pasquini A, Luchetti E, Cardini G.  Evaluation of oxidative stress in hunting dogs during exercise.  Res Vet  Sci 2010; 89:120-23.

Reinhart G, Hinchcliff K, Reynolds A, et al.  Supplementing vitamin E to sled dogs.  Iditarod website. Available at:  http://www.iditarod.com/learn/vet-11.html.  Accessed March 24, 2011.

Toll PW, Gillette RL, Hand MS.  Feeding working and sporting dogs.  In:  Hand MS, Hatcher CD, Remillard RL, Roudebush P, Novotny BJ, eds.  Small animal clinical nutrition.  5^th ed.  Topeka:  Mark Morris Inst, 2010; 321-352.

First Aid Kits

Now that we've talked a bit about disaster preparation, let's talk about first aid kits.  The following are just guidelines and the best resource for being prepared for first aid is going to be your own veterinarian.  If they do not see emergencies, particularly after hours, know who to call if something happens and how to get there will likely be as valuable, if not more so, than using precious time when the more critical thing is to get the dog seen as soon as possible for the best outcome.  Especially if you are performing a community service (i.e.-police K-9s or SAR groups), it will likely be worth your time to inquire at the nearest emergency facility what they recommend for your precise needs.  While I have not personally taken one of the Red Cross first aid courses, they may also be a good resource and information on them can be found here:

http://www.redcross.org/portal/site/en/menuitem.1a019a978f421296e81ec89e43181aa0/?vgnextoid=6317f46306b5b110VgnVCM10000089f0870aRCRD

Like human first aid kits, first aid kits for dogs will vary considerably depending on who is carrying them.  Some handlers may never have taken a first aid course in their life while others work in the medical or veterinary medical field.  It doesn't help to carry what you haven't been trained on how to use as you don't want to waste time on trying things you have not been trained to do.  In addition, the smaller the pack, the more likely you are to have it in your car or near you when it's needed.  The needs of working and performance dogs are also going to be different.  For example, a SAR dog searching the rubble pile or in the field will have a different likihood of injury than huskies in sprint races.  Flyball dogs will be subjected to different stresses on their bodies than field trial dogs.  That being said, there are a few common things that will be helpful to have in any first aid kit.  While you can purchase a dog first aid kit in specialty stores and online, you can also put your own basic first aid kit out of supplies you can get at Wal-Mart, Walgreens, or certain pet/farm supply stores for under $30.

-Vet Wrap:  2"
-Gauze squares (3" x 3" or 4" x 4")
-Medical/athletic tape

-exam gloves (I prefer nitrile/latex free)
-triple antibiotic ointment:  generic Neosporin.  Do not use on puncture wounds or extensive/draining wounds. 
-sterile saline:   for wound flush.  These now come in these neat spray bottles.  They are a bit pricey and run out quickly though
-muzzle:  no first aid kit should be without one!  I prefer the basket muzzles, but the cloth ones are easy to store)
-slip leash:  invaluable if you see a dog on the side of the road kind of thing (note:  don't put yourself or other drivers in harms way to catch a loose dog!).  Slip leashes also can double for muzzles
-the phone numbers of the nearest vet hospital and/or emergency clinic taped to the inside lid of the kit.  ALL trials should have the club secretary or other designated person call around to see who is open and what their hours are for weekend trials.  You may be able to save money by not shipping them to a more expensive emergency clinic if you call ahead to local clinics, who also appreciate the heads up on what's coming in.

All these can be stored in a small Rubbermaid-type or desk organizer type box that can fit in anyone's car or at the registration table at an event.  Small toolboxes are another way to store these.  I also recommend keeping a few items that dogs may not necessarily need, but would come in handy for the humans in your training group.  For example, I had a Benedryl "pen" last year in my first aid kit that came in very handy when a little boy at our July PSA trial was stung by a wasp.  I've also had decoys cut themselves and need a quick wound cleaning.  Other "human" items that are good to have:

-Band-aids, lots of 'em.  :-)
-Hand sanitizer
-Anti-histamine topical: often has Benedryl/generic diphenhydramine for insect stings
-Instant cold packs:  good for injuries, heat exhaustion, and insect stings.  These don't get quite as cold as reusable cold packs, but work fairly well

You can also keep a larger, more "advanced" kit if you feel comfortable doing so.  I often have people ask about suturing or stapling cuts or lacerations, particularly if they are out hunting or are doing SAR fairly far from "civilization."  You essentially have six hours as the "golden time" to suture up a wound for optimum results.  Suturing or stapling a wound also does very little good if the bleeding below the surface has not stopped.  Pressure using gauze is best while getting the animal shipped out.  Some other items to consider:

-duct tape:  ALWAYS useful.  :-)
-several paint stir sticks:  for splinting limbs, often free from paint or hardware stores
-oral Benedryl:  ask your vet for the dose for insect stings
-large beach towel or blanket to use for either a stretcher or to prevent shock
-Nutrical
-jumbo cotton balls
-small bottle of dog shampoo or Dawn dish detergent
-rectal thermometer
-lubricating jelly
-kotex feminine pads:  for heavy bleeding
-eye irrigation solution
-booties for injured paws:  depending on the paw size, an infant or child's sock can also work in a pinch
-bandage scissors

Some working dog handlers, such as narcotics detection handlers, may also want to ask their vet about carrying reversal agents for accidentally ingested narcotics, if available.  I hope this list gives you a few things to think about.  Keep in mind it is not exhaustive and you may need different items based on the needs of your dogs (and the humans training with them!).

Disaster Preparation

I'm back!  I spent a good bit of the last three weeks down in Joplin, Missouri helping the ASPCA with tornado disaster relief.  I also just got back from a two day seminar sponsored by SEMA on emergency animal sheltering put on by the Humane Society of Missouri.  I'd like to share a few things I learned about preparing for a disaster in consideration of your dogs, be they strictly pets or working dogs.  Before Joplin, I was a bit lax on preparing for this sort of thing as in central Missouri, we are not in hurricane or wildfire country, not directly on a flood plain or earthquake fault line (unlike many of our other Missouri residents).  We mostly just get the odd tornado watch or warning that was more of an annoyance that interrupts a TV program than something to be taken seriously.  Until I went down and saw the destruction of the worst tornado in recent history.  Just a few days after my first trip back from Joplin, the sirens rang for a tornado warning and I immediately put on long pants, boots, grabbed my cell phone, wallet, and cash, and prepared to get in our walk in closet!  After seeing the destruction, I will never take a tornado warning lightly again!  I took some video and photos from my first trip a few days afterwards seen below:

A disaster plan does not need to be complicated.  But it does need to happen.  One of the most important lessons I learned was that you must communicate!  If you must evacuate your home, have a plan outside your area to take your animals.  FEMA and other disaster agencies learned from Hurricane Katrina that people will not always evacuate without their pets. I was at a Red Cross co-location shelter for four days where they did amazingly allow animals, but many do not.  Let others know of your plans and have a meeting place both near your home and further away.  Cell phone communication the day of and after in Joplin was sketchy at best and interestingly, many used Facebook updates from their phones as a way to communicate they were alright.  You can also use something like the Safe and Well website on the Red Cross:  https://safeandwell.communityos.org/cms/index.php

So in preparing for a disaster with animals, what can you do?  Here are some tips I learned both from my experience in Joplin and from the SEMA course:

-have photos of your pets.  Most people have camera phones and taking a photo of each and storing on your phone will help if you become separated (assuming your phone is still operating!)
-have an emergency kit.  This kit should contain the follow:

• 3 days worth of food (dry or canned).  I recommend keeping the kibble in waterproof bags, such as in Seal a Meal bags, to keep out both vermin and water.  Many cans have a pop top these days, but don't forget a can opener!  Collapsible bowls are also easy to find in pet supply stores.
• 3 days worth of drinking water.  For most mammals (dogs, cats, horses, other livestock), most mammals drink approximately 1 gallon per 100 lbs of body weight per day.  This is a VERY rough approximation.  Obviously this will vary by the situation and the weather conditions
• All medications 
• A pet first aid kit.  These are available commercially or you can also put one together for less than $30.  In the next entry, I will cover my recommendations for a first aid kit
• Photos of your pet and the most recent vaccination records.  Vaccine records are important to have if your pets need to boarded on an emergency basis.  Keep these in a gallon sized ziplock bag to avoid getting wet
•  Dawn (plain) dish soap.  In a chemical spill or flood, Dawn is particularly helpful for decontaminating your pet.  There are many unknown nasty organisms or chemicals in flood waters that will need to be scrubbed off.  Remember, if your home is underwater, it's likely the farm store with the pesticides/herbicides and the auto parts store with the car batteries, oils, and solvents are too!
• Carriers (small dogs and cats), spare leashes, and collars with extra ID tags.  For ID tags in general, I recommend putting the phone number of an out of state good friend or relative on the ID tags in case you or your phone are somehow incapacitated

-Another important tip for your emergency kit and first aid kit is to check it regularly!  When you change your clock for day light savings time, replace your battery in your smoke detector and take a moment to look at your kit to make sure it is still intact and does not require any updating of the contents.
-Crate train your animals.  Some dogs and many cats are not used to being contained in a crate, which will be enormously stressful if your animals will need to be kept there for any length of time during or after a disaster.  There are many resources on crate training dogs and cats and acclimating them beforehand is critical.  Trying to dig out a scared dog or cat from under the bed while sirens are going off is not the best use of your time.
-Microchip your animals and just as importantly, make sure the contact info is still good with the company it is under
-Do a few test runs to allow you to grab your own personal effects (wallet, cell phone, computer external hard drive or laptop, etc).  Care for yourself before you address your pets, as they won't be able to get your help if you are incapacitated.  Put small dogs and cats in carriers and large dogs on a leash or in crates in your safe area (interior bathroom/closet, basement, cellar) if possible.
-Use the stickers that are often given out at pet trade shows or elsewhere that state that animals are on the premises to alert emergency teams at every major access point, not just by the front door.

Hope that gives you a few things to think about to potentially save the life of you and your animals.  Next entry will be concerned with a first aid kit for pets.

Quick Break!

I've been going up and down to Joplin the past few days to help with the tornado effort and am likely going back down tomorrow for a few more to work with the ASPCA, so I may not post another entry for a few days.  Thanks for your patience!

Hot Weather Safety

Well, after a very cold spring, it's finally starting to heat up!  From weekend warriors to serious dog trainers, it's time to make sure everyone is safe while training!  After a long winter and a cold wet spring (at least in our neck of the woods), our dogs are not at peak condition.  Training for protection sport has been difficult and herding has been just about impossible (my dog is not the type you can chase around in the mud after sheep...) to schedule.  So how do we get them into shape for spring and summer trials or fall hunting?  Gradually!

Many handlers want to give their dogs diet supplements to get them into tip top condition for competition.  And many companies will be glad to take your money for said supplements!  Ignore the temptation for an "easy fix" and spend less money and more time on conditioning.  Please note I am not suggesting skimping on quality nutrition.  We will address the nutritional needs of working and performance dogs in later entries ad nauseum (my favorite topic!).  But in general, keeping a dog well hydrated and bringing them up gradually to a plateau of performance during trial season is going to be your best bet. 

The main goal of today's entry is safety.  Most handlers are excellent at being aware of the concerns of overheating their dogs.  However, at the dock diving trial I was at last week, I saw a Chesapeake Bay retriever in a sedan with the windows only cracked about 2-3 inches on each and it was over 80 F.  So a large part of hot weather safety is regulating the temperature of where the dog is when she's not on the training field.  Agility or rally classes tend to be no more than an hour or so, but Schutzhund training can be a nearly all day affair with some clubs.  The savvy handler will park his or her vehicle under shade and especially before a trial, shady spots are under almost as much competition as the action under the field.  So how do you make your own shade if there is none?  Basic 9 ft x 9 ft canopy tents are only about $50-60 from big box stores and most go up with a minimum of fuss for guaranteed all day shade (just watch the wind as they can blow away!).  Sun shades are another inexpensive but valuable solution to go in the front and back windshields, especially for those who drive sedans (as I do to save gas money) and who can't open up the back door like in vans and SUVs.  Some like battery operated crate fans, but I prefer the inexpensive fans that you can plug into the adapter and have a clip that can secure to the dashboard or window frame.  Wire crates give more ventilation than plastic crates, though plastic crates with two doors provide both good ventilation and shade.

Some choose to leave the car engine on so the air conditioning can run.  I have heard of at least one instance where the car stopped for some reason while the owner was away and a dog died from heat exhaustion in the car with no windows down.  Many also lock their doors while the engine is on.  If you do choose this method, it is likely wise to only do with the doors unlocked so other people can assist if there is an emergency (i.e.-your dog is almost comatose from heat exhaustion) and you are not in the vicinity.  In other words, if you leave your car on, only do so at the trial or training field where you can have a clear view of your vehicle at all times, not while parking your car at the Cracker Barrel for two hours for the post trial dinner and socializing.

Now that we've talked about safety in the car and crate, what about the dog?  Keep clean and fresh water available at all times during warm weather.  When holding a trial, particularly when it is more than 5-10 minutes from amenities like a gas station or fast food, the club ideally should provide either water in some form, either from a hose or pump or have water to sell.  In addition, someone from the club should call around to area vets to see who is open during the trial weekend so if there is an emergency (heat related or otherwise), the club can direct handlers from out of town where to take their dog.  This information should ideally be located on the trial flyer or some other central location.  Check on your dog frequently! 

Once your dog is done working, walk them out for a 5-10 minute cool down so they are not panting quite so heavily before you offer water.  This is particularly important in brachiocephalic breeds (bulldogs, Bostons, boxers, some pit bulls) and deep chested breeds prone to GDV or "bloat" (German shepherds, labs, Dobermans, Great Danes, etc).  I am honestly not sure how scientific this is, but one way to tell how hard your dog is panting is to look at their tongue.  If it is pink and flat with a rounded appearance at the tip, they are probably panting normally and may not particularly overheated. 

Once they become bright red or purplish and have a more rolled over appearance at the edges with the tip of the tongue looking "sharper" or more like a scoop, they may be getting overheated and it's time for a break. 

Having known several trainers and owners whose dogs have died of GDV (gastric dilation and volvulus or "bloat"), offering a large amount of water right after work is not ideal.  Until the average German shepherd or lab has slowed down in panting after work with a cool down, only offer perhaps half a cup of water at a time until they cool down further.  Once they have cooled down significantly and are not panting as hard, more water can steadily be offered. 

Watch for other signs, such as tacky gums, the skin between their ears on their head not being as elastic or forming a "tent" where there shouldn't be one, increased heart rate (180+ beats per minute for medium to large dogs), lethargy, and rectal body temperature of 103 F+.  The BEST treatment of dogs with heat exhaustion, besides prevention, is under some debate from emergency and critical care practitioners.  Unfortunately, most of what we know is from the human literature and humans cool themselves by sweating.  Other than a small amount of sweat produced by glands on their paw pads, dogs do not sweat and depend more on panting.  This is why boxers, some pit bulls, and other brachiocephalic breeds should be watched very closely as the cooling mechanisms in the nasal passages has been essentially squashed.  Some training clubs will keep a filled kiddie pool for the dogs to get in after working in the high heat of the summer.  One school of thought says to not completely wet the dog down on its back so heat can still escape from the top.

If you notice signs of heat exhaustion in your working dog, what should you do?  Act quickly!  Just like humans, these can progress into seizures, coma, or death.  These dogs should be moved to a cool shaded location with a fan blowing on them directly.  A kiddie pool or bath tub is nice to have on hand to wet the dog down but do not submerge them in ice water.  Most authorities state this will cause vasoconstriction of the blood vessels near the skin from the cold, but hold in the rest of the heat of the body.  Cold packs can be placed under the arm pits and in the groin area of front and back legs while the dog is being transported to a vet.  At the vet, they will likely start the dog on IV fluids and further the cooling process in a slow way to avoid what is called "rebound hypothermia" where the body's temperature dips below 100 F to compensate.  As emergencies, these episodes are harrowing, costly, and upsetting.  Accidents do happen, but keeping safety in mind when training and trialing your working or performance dog will more than pay for itself. 

I Need a Specialist!

As a disclaimer, this is absolutely not a knock against any veterinary general practitioner!  For many, many years the GP would do (and still does!) many surgeries and procedures a human GP would never dream of doing.  Can you imagine a human GP doing a major abdominal surgery like a hysterectomy (spay)?  However, some issues are likely best seen by a specialist and a good general practitioner knows when to refer.  While specialists are usually more expensive to go see than a general practitioner, it can be very valuable for the livelihood of your working or performance dog to not delay in seeing a specialist given the time and money you have put into your dog.

In veterinary medicine, to call yourself a specialist, you must attend undergraduate college for four years and four years of veterinary medical school.  After vet school, most candidates complete one or more years in a rotating internship where they see additional cases in a broad variety of specialties typically either at an academic teaching hospital or a larger private practice.  After the internship, a residency in a specialty usually between two and four years depending on the specialty is completed and candidates sit for a board exam.  Then they can be called a specialist once they pass the strenuous board exam.

Specialties in veterinary medicine are just about as broad as in human medicine and can range from anesthesiology, dentistry, internal medicine, and radiology to neurosurgery, radiation oncology, and zoo medicine and surgery.  There are general practitioners with special interests in certain areas (for instance, my special interests are in nutrition, sports medicine, and reproduction) that go to continuing education to further hone their skills, but these cannot be called "specialists."

So how does one find a specialist for their dog?  Ideally, your local vet can help them locate and refer you to a specialist.  This is helpful as your local vet will have seen your dog progressively for the issue and can relay them to the specialist along with sending over necessary medical history, radiographs (x-rays), and so on.  But if you're not sure where to turn, here are a few common "colleges" (kind of like the overseeing governing boards for a certain specialty) where you can look up local specialties.

American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (includes internal medicine, neurology, cardiology, oncology)

http://www.acvim.org/websites/acvim/index.php?p=3

American College of Veterinary Surgeons

http://www.acvs.org/AboutTheACVS/DiplomateDirectory/

American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation

http://vsmr.org.p11.hostingprod.com/diplomates.html

American College of Veterinary Nutrition

http://www.acvn.org/site/view/58670_ACVNMemberDiplomates.pml

American College of Ophthalmology

http://www.acvo.org/new/diplomates/Dip1.shtml

American Veterinary Dental College:

http://www.avdc-dms.org/dms/list/diplomates.cfm?CFID=11396951&CFTOKEN=53424962


The preceding list is not exhaustive and there are many other specialties out there.  In addition to the specific specialty colleges, the nearest veterinary teaching hospital is also a good place to inquire.

http://www.avma.org/education/cvea/colleges_accredited/colleges_accredited.asp

Practical Marker Training for the Working Dog Part II

So now that we've discussed a few practical ways for handlers and owners to incorporate marker training into some day to day husbandry and vet vets, let's discuss how veterinary professionals might be able to use reward based positive reinforcement and marker training into their practice. I know what you're probably thinking..."we have a REALLY busy practice, how can we ever incorporate this into our daily day to day?"  An excellent question!

One caveat is that reward based marker training usually works with food (but not always), so it isn't always going to be able to be used.  For example, animals about to undergo sedation or general anesthesia are not the best candidates for having bellies full of treats beforehand due to risks of aspiration.  Another is that you as the receptionist, assistant, nurse, or doctor should ask before giving dogs treats as sometimes interesting diet histories revealing food allergies/sensitivities may come to light that didn't pop up during the history in the exam room.  My own dogs are on a relatively controlled diet and I dislike pet store clerks who try to give them junk food like Milkbones or Pupperoni without me asking (after all, they don't have to clean up the diarrhea the next morning!).


So how can you use rewards based training or marker training in practice?  Some of these were covered in the previous post, such as the use of conditioning of muzzles as a treat cup instead of punishment.  There are likely many, many applications that are limited only by your imagination (and budget for treats and time!), especially using with puppy visits.  Many puppies won't even flinch if Cheese Whiz is applied to the exam table in a six inch strip while vaccines are being administered.  Encourage puppy owners to stop by the vet's office just for "cookie exams" where they get weighed and treats and nothing bad happens.  The time you spend now with the pups will pay off when they are adults.  Unfortunately, many adult dogs with low to mid level food drives will not be interested in taking dry biscuit treats due to nervousness in a place they associate as new or previously unpleasant.  Take your time with these guys as it may prevent a bite.  For dogs who do need muzzles but that you wish to work on desensitization and counter conditioning, again, don't use a cloth muzzle!  Use a basket muzzle like in the previous post.  Jafco muzzles have holes for ventilation on the sides that can accommodate the tip of a Cheese Whiz bottle very nicely and they can be hand washed or put in the dishwasher on the upper rack, unlike leather muzzles.

Beyond just using treats in practice, how can you specifically use marker training?  One valuable application of clicker training is physical rehabilitation and sports medicine.  If a dog needs to learn how to stay in place on a physioball, disc, crossing cavelettis or ladders, or starting on the underwater treadmill, marker training is an excellent method to communicate to the dog exactly what you want.  Particularly since many rehab patients are drop off or occasionally boarding patients, either the tech or the doctor performing the rehab can spend as much time as needed to start the marker training process.  The dog will also get what you asking for (a specific behavior to perform an exercise) more quickly. 

Hopefully this post will give you some ideas on using food rewards in practice and perhaps branching out into marker training.  If anyone has any other ideas or tips, feel free to share!