If you've ever gotten bloodwork back on one of your dogs either as part of a wellness screening tool or if your dog was ill and wondered what in the world all those values meant, this is a neat little cheat sheet that explains what they mean.
http://veterinarybusiness.dvm360.com/vetec/data/articlestandard//vetec/392011/740627/article.pdf
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Canine Performance Nutrition: An Overview
This is a paper I wrote for a nutrition elective rotation I took in March 2011. I am posting it as I believe many might find it interesting. I'll be posting more on nutrition in the future. Enjoy!
***
While the majority of dogs in developed nations enjoy fairly sedentary lives, more and more owners are including their canine companions in a variety of activities and sports. Dogs now commonly join their owners to compete in the newer sports of agility, flyball, and dock diving. Performance events such as herding, protection, hunting, and sledding remain popular and blur the lines between work and play for dogs and their handlers. In addition, dogs provide a valuable service to military, law enforcement, and the community through patrol work, scent detection, and search and rescue efforts. While nutrition is not a substitute for the correct genetics, training, and conditioning of performance dogs, many owners are very interested in the nutritional needs of their canine athlete. To reach peak performance through optimal nutrition, owners and veterinarians should calculate the caloric needs, consider a diet that complements the performance expected based on the components of the food, and develop a feeding plan that optimizes peak performance.
Most nutritional studies of canine athletes have traditionally focused on the sports of dog racing and dog sledding. The two average participants in these activities are greyhounds and husky-type dogs respectively. Greyhound racing is a highly anaerobic sport that short in duration which is reflected in the type IIa fast twitch muscle fibers that dominate a greyhound’s lean muscle mass (Hill 1998), while some dog sled races such as the Iditarod are over one thousand of miles in length covered over the course of up to two weeks. Most other canine activities fall somewhere in between these two extremes, with sports like agility and flyball being more similar to sprint racing and hunting field trials and ranch livestock work of several days duration being more similar to sledding (Toll et al. 2010). Understanding the nature of the activity that the canine athlete is participating in is crucial for making nutritional recommendations to the owner.
In deciding a nutrition plan for a canine athlete, it is helpful to understand some of the differences in how food is utilized by the body depending on the type of exercise. Parallels between the nutritional needs of human and canine sprinters versus marathon runners are commonly made in comparative studies of exercise physiology, though the dog in general is better suited to oxidative metabolism of fats and dogs metabolize free fatty acids at twice the rate as humans (Hill 1998). However, most sources suggest that as in humans, sprinters such as greyhounds do best with higher levels of carbohydrates to mobilize glucose during short durations of exertion; in contrast, endurance runners such as sled dogs or hunting dogs may exhaust their stores of glycogen and may have improved performance on high protein, high fat, and low carbohydrate foods (Hill 1998). Different studies have also shown hematological effects such as “training-induced anemia” (Hill 1998) and decrease in total protein in serum (Hinchcliff 2000) before and after strenuous prolonged exercise in sled dogs that may be exacerbated if the protein levels are not moderately high, though one smaller non-cross over study showed a vegetarian- based food did not significantly alter either blood values or performance of short distance sprint racing huskies (Brown 2009).
In addition to the basic components of the food, meeting but not exceeding the energy requirements of canine athletes can be challenging both in the trial season and in the off season. As most greyhounds run only a short distance at a high intensity level every few days, most sources suggest that their caloric requirements are likely similar to other moderately active dogs with a life stage factor of 1.6. On the other extreme, long distance sled dogs may require a life stage factor of over 10 not only due to physical exertion, but because of extremely cold environmental conditions (Hand et al. 2010). A highly calorically dense diet is required to meet the needs of the long distance sled dog. Owners and kennel workers should be aware that feeding to these levels in the off season is not advised and that they may return the dog to a lower plane of nutrition after the training and trial season is over or risk gaining an undesirable amount of weight. Dogs that compete in other short but explosive sports such as flyball and agility are likely closer to greyhounds in their need for caloric intake and will likely not need a large increase in their rations during competition season. Herding, police, and hunting dogs would likely be in between the extremes of caloric requirements.
Some special considerations of certain canine athletes (racing dogs, sled dogs, and hunting dogs) may include oxidative stress both from the physical exertion itself and the addition of extra animal or plant based fat sources for energy (Pasquini et al. 2010, Hinchcliff et al. 2000). Supplementation of 400 IU of vitamin E beyond what is in typical commercially available diets have been suggested by some authors to account for the loss of antioxidants from the stress of heavy exercise and oxidation of high levels of dietary fats for sled dogs (Reinhart et al.). In addition, dogs that rely heavily on their olfactory sense, such as detection or search and rescue dogs, may benefit from fatty acids in their diets. Not only are certain PUFAs anti-inflammatory, but scent detection relies on the olfactory epithelium, of which fatty acids are integrated as components of the cell membrane (Toll 2010). As a general rule, many “weekend warrior” types of canine athletes that accompany their owners to the hiking trails or to an agility trial may not need special dietary supplements as long as their nutritional requirements are being met by feeding a high quality commercially prepared diet. Other canine athletes such as hunting dogs or sled dogs may be fairly sedentary during all but the competition seasons when they are asked to perform strenuous and prolonged exercise at high levels. Diet changes both at the onset and peak times of training should be gradual if possible. It should be communicated to owners that while nutrition is vital, training, conditioning, and genetics will be of greater value for performance than supplements or special diets.
Works Cited
Brown WY, Vanselow BA, Redman AJ, et al. An experimental meat-free diet maintained haematological characteristics in sprint-racing sled dogs. Br J Nutr 2009; 102:1318-23.
Hinchcliff KW, Reinhart GA, DiSilvestro R, et al. Oxidant stress in sled dogs subjected to repetitive endurance exercise. Am J Vet Res 2000; 61:512-17.
Hill RC. The nutritional requirements of exercising dogs. J Nutr 1998; 128:2686S–2690S.
Pasquini A, Luchetti E, Cardini G. Evaluation of oxidative stress in hunting dogs during exercise. Res Vet Sci 2010; 89:120-23.
Reinhart G, Hinchcliff K, Reynolds A, et al. Supplementing vitamin E to sled dogs. Iditarod website. Available at: http://www.iditarod.com/learn/vet-11.html. Accessed March 24, 2011.
Toll PW, Gillette RL, Hand MS. Feeding working and sporting dogs. In: Hand MS, Hatcher CD, Remillard RL, Roudebush P, Novotny BJ, eds. Small animal clinical nutrition. 5th ed. Topeka: Mark Morris Inst, 2010; 321-352.
Monday, June 27, 2011
First Aid Kits
Now that we've talked a bit about disaster preparation, let's talk about first aid kits. The following are just guidelines and the best resource for being prepared for first aid is going to be your own veterinarian. If they do not see emergencies, particularly after hours, know who to call if something happens and how to get there will likely be as valuable, if not more so, than using precious time when the more critical thing is to get the dog seen as soon as possible for the best outcome. Especially if you are performing a community service (i.e.-police K-9s or SAR groups), it will likely be worth your time to inquire at the nearest emergency facility what they recommend for your precise needs. While I have not personally taken one of the Red Cross first aid courses, they may also be a good resource and information on them can be found here:
http://www.redcross.org/portal/site/en/menuitem.1a019a978f421296e81ec89e43181aa0/?vgnextoid=6317f46306b5b110VgnVCM10000089f0870aRCRD
Like human first aid kits, first aid kits for dogs will vary considerably depending on who is carrying them. Some handlers may never have taken a first aid course in their life while others work in the medical or veterinary medical field. It doesn't help to carry what you haven't been trained on how to use as you don't want to waste time on trying things you have not been trained to do. In addition, the smaller the pack, the more likely you are to have it in your car or near you when it's needed. The needs of working and performance dogs are also going to be different. For example, a SAR dog searching the rubble pile or in the field will have a different likihood of injury than huskies in sprint races. Flyball dogs will be subjected to different stresses on their bodies than field trial dogs. That being said, there are a few common things that will be helpful to have in any first aid kit. While you can purchase a dog first aid kit in specialty stores and online, you can also put your own basic first aid kit out of supplies you can get at Wal-Mart, Walgreens, or certain pet/farm supply stores for under $30.
-Vet Wrap: 2"
-Gauze squares (3" x 3" or 4" x 4")
-Medical/athletic tape
-exam gloves (I prefer nitrile/latex free)
-triple antibiotic ointment: generic Neosporin. Do not use on puncture wounds or extensive/draining wounds.
-sterile saline: for wound flush. These now come in these neat spray bottles. They are a bit pricey and run out quickly though
-muzzle: no first aid kit should be without one! I prefer the basket muzzles, but the cloth ones are easy to store)
-slip leash: invaluable if you see a dog on the side of the road kind of thing (note: don't put yourself or other drivers in harms way to catch a loose dog!). Slip leashes also can double for muzzles
-the phone numbers of the nearest vet hospital and/or emergency clinic taped to the inside lid of the kit. ALL trials should have the club secretary or other designated person call around to see who is open and what their hours are for weekend trials. You may be able to save money by not shipping them to a more expensive emergency clinic if you call ahead to local clinics, who also appreciate the heads up on what's coming in.
All these can be stored in a small Rubbermaid-type or desk organizer type box that can fit in anyone's car or at the registration table at an event. Small toolboxes are another way to store these. I also recommend keeping a few items that dogs may not necessarily need, but would come in handy for the humans in your training group. For example, I had a Benedryl "pen" last year in my first aid kit that came in very handy when a little boy at our July PSA trial was stung by a wasp. I've also had decoys cut themselves and need a quick wound cleaning. Other "human" items that are good to have:
-Band-aids, lots of 'em. :-)
-Hand sanitizer
-Anti-histamine topical: often has Benedryl/generic diphenhydramine for insect stings
-Instant cold packs: good for injuries, heat exhaustion, and insect stings. These don't get quite as cold as reusable cold packs, but work fairly well
You can also keep a larger, more "advanced" kit if you feel comfortable doing so. I often have people ask about suturing or stapling cuts or lacerations, particularly if they are out hunting or are doing SAR fairly far from "civilization." You essentially have six hours as the "golden time" to suture up a wound for optimum results. Suturing or stapling a wound also does very little good if the bleeding below the surface has not stopped. Pressure using gauze is best while getting the animal shipped out. Some other items to consider:
-duct tape: ALWAYS useful. :-)
-several paint stir sticks: for splinting limbs, often free from paint or hardware stores
-oral Benedryl: ask your vet for the dose for insect stings
-large beach towel or blanket to use for either a stretcher or to prevent shock
-Nutrical
-jumbo cotton balls
-small bottle of dog shampoo or Dawn dish detergent
-rectal thermometer
-lubricating jelly
-kotex feminine pads: for heavy bleeding
-eye irrigation solution
-booties for injured paws: depending on the paw size, an infant or child's sock can also work in a pinch
-bandage scissors
Some working dog handlers, such as narcotics detection handlers, may also want to ask their vet about carrying reversal agents for accidentally ingested narcotics, if available. I hope this list gives you a few things to think about. Keep in mind it is not exhaustive and you may need different items based on the needs of your dogs (and the humans training with them!).
http://www.redcross.org/portal/site/en/menuitem.1a019a978f421296e81ec89e43181aa0/?vgnextoid=6317f46306b5b110VgnVCM10000089f0870aRCRD
Like human first aid kits, first aid kits for dogs will vary considerably depending on who is carrying them. Some handlers may never have taken a first aid course in their life while others work in the medical or veterinary medical field. It doesn't help to carry what you haven't been trained on how to use as you don't want to waste time on trying things you have not been trained to do. In addition, the smaller the pack, the more likely you are to have it in your car or near you when it's needed. The needs of working and performance dogs are also going to be different. For example, a SAR dog searching the rubble pile or in the field will have a different likihood of injury than huskies in sprint races. Flyball dogs will be subjected to different stresses on their bodies than field trial dogs. That being said, there are a few common things that will be helpful to have in any first aid kit. While you can purchase a dog first aid kit in specialty stores and online, you can also put your own basic first aid kit out of supplies you can get at Wal-Mart, Walgreens, or certain pet/farm supply stores for under $30.
-Vet Wrap: 2"
-Gauze squares (3" x 3" or 4" x 4")
-Medical/athletic tape
-exam gloves (I prefer nitrile/latex free)
-triple antibiotic ointment: generic Neosporin. Do not use on puncture wounds or extensive/draining wounds.
-sterile saline: for wound flush. These now come in these neat spray bottles. They are a bit pricey and run out quickly though
-muzzle: no first aid kit should be without one! I prefer the basket muzzles, but the cloth ones are easy to store)
-slip leash: invaluable if you see a dog on the side of the road kind of thing (note: don't put yourself or other drivers in harms way to catch a loose dog!). Slip leashes also can double for muzzles
-the phone numbers of the nearest vet hospital and/or emergency clinic taped to the inside lid of the kit. ALL trials should have the club secretary or other designated person call around to see who is open and what their hours are for weekend trials. You may be able to save money by not shipping them to a more expensive emergency clinic if you call ahead to local clinics, who also appreciate the heads up on what's coming in.
All these can be stored in a small Rubbermaid-type or desk organizer type box that can fit in anyone's car or at the registration table at an event. Small toolboxes are another way to store these. I also recommend keeping a few items that dogs may not necessarily need, but would come in handy for the humans in your training group. For example, I had a Benedryl "pen" last year in my first aid kit that came in very handy when a little boy at our July PSA trial was stung by a wasp. I've also had decoys cut themselves and need a quick wound cleaning. Other "human" items that are good to have:
-Band-aids, lots of 'em. :-)
-Hand sanitizer
-Anti-histamine topical: often has Benedryl/generic diphenhydramine for insect stings
-Instant cold packs: good for injuries, heat exhaustion, and insect stings. These don't get quite as cold as reusable cold packs, but work fairly well
You can also keep a larger, more "advanced" kit if you feel comfortable doing so. I often have people ask about suturing or stapling cuts or lacerations, particularly if they are out hunting or are doing SAR fairly far from "civilization." You essentially have six hours as the "golden time" to suture up a wound for optimum results. Suturing or stapling a wound also does very little good if the bleeding below the surface has not stopped. Pressure using gauze is best while getting the animal shipped out. Some other items to consider:
-duct tape: ALWAYS useful. :-)
-several paint stir sticks: for splinting limbs, often free from paint or hardware stores
-oral Benedryl: ask your vet for the dose for insect stings
-large beach towel or blanket to use for either a stretcher or to prevent shock
-Nutrical
-jumbo cotton balls
-small bottle of dog shampoo or Dawn dish detergent
-rectal thermometer
-lubricating jelly
-kotex feminine pads: for heavy bleeding
-eye irrigation solution
-booties for injured paws: depending on the paw size, an infant or child's sock can also work in a pinch
-bandage scissors
Some working dog handlers, such as narcotics detection handlers, may also want to ask their vet about carrying reversal agents for accidentally ingested narcotics, if available. I hope this list gives you a few things to think about. Keep in mind it is not exhaustive and you may need different items based on the needs of your dogs (and the humans training with them!).
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Disaster Preparation
I'm back! I spent a good bit of the last three weeks down in Joplin, Missouri helping the ASPCA with tornado disaster relief. I also just got back from a two day seminar sponsored by SEMA on emergency animal sheltering put on by the Humane Society of Missouri. I'd like to share a few things I learned about preparing for a disaster in consideration of your dogs, be they strictly pets or working dogs. Before Joplin, I was a bit lax on preparing for this sort of thing as in central Missouri, we are not in hurricane or wildfire country, not directly on a flood plain or earthquake fault line (unlike many of our other Missouri residents). We mostly just get the odd tornado watch or warning that was more of an annoyance that interrupts a TV program than something to be taken seriously. Until I went down and saw the destruction of the worst tornado in recent history. Just a few days after my first trip back from Joplin, the sirens rang for a tornado warning and I immediately put on long pants, boots, grabbed my cell phone, wallet, and cash, and prepared to get in our walk in closet! After seeing the destruction, I will never take a tornado warning lightly again! I took some video and photos from my first trip a few days afterwards seen below:
A disaster plan does not need to be complicated. But it does need to happen. One of the most important lessons I learned was that you must communicate! If you must evacuate your home, have a plan outside your area to take your animals. FEMA and other disaster agencies learned from Hurricane Katrina that people will not always evacuate without their pets. I was at a Red Cross co-location shelter for four days where they did amazingly allow animals, but many do not. Let others know of your plans and have a meeting place both near your home and further away. Cell phone communication the day of and after in Joplin was sketchy at best and interestingly, many used Facebook updates from their phones as a way to communicate they were alright. You can also use something like the Safe and Well website on the Red Cross: https://safeandwell.communityos.org/cms/index.php
So in preparing for a disaster with animals, what can you do? Here are some tips I learned both from my experience in Joplin and from the SEMA course:
-have photos of your pets. Most people have camera phones and taking a photo of each and storing on your phone will help if you become separated (assuming your phone is still operating!)
-have an emergency kit. This kit should contain the follow:
-Crate train your animals. Some dogs and many cats are not used to being contained in a crate, which will be enormously stressful if your animals will need to be kept there for any length of time during or after a disaster. There are many resources on crate training dogs and cats and acclimating them beforehand is critical. Trying to dig out a scared dog or cat from under the bed while sirens are going off is not the best use of your time.
-Microchip your animals and just as importantly, make sure the contact info is still good with the company it is under
-Do a few test runs to allow you to grab your own personal effects (wallet, cell phone, computer external hard drive or laptop, etc). Care for yourself before you address your pets, as they won't be able to get your help if you are incapacitated. Put small dogs and cats in carriers and large dogs on a leash or in crates in your safe area (interior bathroom/closet, basement, cellar) if possible.
-Use the stickers that are often given out at pet trade shows or elsewhere that state that animals are on the premises to alert emergency teams at every major access point, not just by the front door.
Hope that gives you a few things to think about to potentially save the life of you and your animals. Next entry will be concerned with a first aid kit for pets.
A disaster plan does not need to be complicated. But it does need to happen. One of the most important lessons I learned was that you must communicate! If you must evacuate your home, have a plan outside your area to take your animals. FEMA and other disaster agencies learned from Hurricane Katrina that people will not always evacuate without their pets. I was at a Red Cross co-location shelter for four days where they did amazingly allow animals, but many do not. Let others know of your plans and have a meeting place both near your home and further away. Cell phone communication the day of and after in Joplin was sketchy at best and interestingly, many used Facebook updates from their phones as a way to communicate they were alright. You can also use something like the Safe and Well website on the Red Cross: https://safeandwell.communityos.org/cms/index.php
So in preparing for a disaster with animals, what can you do? Here are some tips I learned both from my experience in Joplin and from the SEMA course:
-have photos of your pets. Most people have camera phones and taking a photo of each and storing on your phone will help if you become separated (assuming your phone is still operating!)
-have an emergency kit. This kit should contain the follow:
- 3 days worth of food (dry or canned). I recommend keeping the kibble in waterproof bags, such as in Seal a Meal bags, to keep out both vermin and water. Many cans have a pop top these days, but don't forget a can opener! Collapsible bowls are also easy to find in pet supply stores.
- 3 days worth of drinking water. For most mammals (dogs, cats, horses, other livestock), most mammals drink approximately 1 gallon per 100 lbs of body weight per day. This is a VERY rough approximation. Obviously this will vary by the situation and the weather conditions
- All medications
- A pet first aid kit. These are available commercially or you can also put one together for less than $30. In the next entry, I will cover my recommendations for a first aid kit
- Photos of your pet and the most recent vaccination records. Vaccine records are important to have if your pets need to boarded on an emergency basis. Keep these in a gallon sized ziplock bag to avoid getting wet
- Dawn (plain) dish soap. In a chemical spill or flood, Dawn is particularly helpful for decontaminating your pet. There are many unknown nasty organisms or chemicals in flood waters that will need to be scrubbed off. Remember, if your home is underwater, it's likely the farm store with the pesticides/herbicides and the auto parts store with the car batteries, oils, and solvents are too!
- Carriers (small dogs and cats), spare leashes, and collars with extra ID tags. For ID tags in general, I recommend putting the phone number of an out of state good friend or relative on the ID tags in case you or your phone are somehow incapacitated
-Crate train your animals. Some dogs and many cats are not used to being contained in a crate, which will be enormously stressful if your animals will need to be kept there for any length of time during or after a disaster. There are many resources on crate training dogs and cats and acclimating them beforehand is critical. Trying to dig out a scared dog or cat from under the bed while sirens are going off is not the best use of your time.
-Microchip your animals and just as importantly, make sure the contact info is still good with the company it is under
-Do a few test runs to allow you to grab your own personal effects (wallet, cell phone, computer external hard drive or laptop, etc). Care for yourself before you address your pets, as they won't be able to get your help if you are incapacitated. Put small dogs and cats in carriers and large dogs on a leash or in crates in your safe area (interior bathroom/closet, basement, cellar) if possible.
-Use the stickers that are often given out at pet trade shows or elsewhere that state that animals are on the premises to alert emergency teams at every major access point, not just by the front door.
Hope that gives you a few things to think about to potentially save the life of you and your animals. Next entry will be concerned with a first aid kit for pets.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Quick Break!
I've been going up and down to Joplin the past few days to help with the tornado effort and am likely going back down tomorrow for a few more to work with the ASPCA, so I may not post another entry for a few days. Thanks for your patience!
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Hot Weather Safety
Well, after a very cold spring, it's finally starting to heat up! From weekend warriors to serious dog trainers, it's time to make sure everyone is safe while training! After a long winter and a cold wet spring (at least in our neck of the woods), our dogs are not at peak condition. Training for protection sport has been difficult and herding has been just about impossible (my dog is not the type you can chase around in the mud after sheep...) to schedule. So how do we get them into shape for spring and summer trials or fall hunting? Gradually!
Many handlers want to give their dogs diet supplements to get them into tip top condition for competition. And many companies will be glad to take your money for said supplements! Ignore the temptation for an "easy fix" and spend less money and more time on conditioning. Please note I am not suggesting skimping on quality nutrition. We will address the nutritional needs of working and performance dogs in later entries ad nauseum (my favorite topic!). But in general, keeping a dog well hydrated and bringing them up gradually to a plateau of performance during trial season is going to be your best bet.
The main goal of today's entry is safety. Most handlers are excellent at being aware of the concerns of overheating their dogs. However, at the dock diving trial I was at last week, I saw a Chesapeake Bay retriever in a sedan with the windows only cracked about 2-3 inches on each and it was over 80 F. So a large part of hot weather safety is regulating the temperature of where the dog is when she's not on the training field. Agility or rally classes tend to be no more than an hour or so, but Schutzhund training can be a nearly all day affair with some clubs. The savvy handler will park his or her vehicle under shade and especially before a trial, shady spots are under almost as much competition as the action under the field. So how do you make your own shade if there is none? Basic 9 ft x 9 ft canopy tents are only about $50-60 from big box stores and most go up with a minimum of fuss for guaranteed all day shade (just watch the wind as they can blow away!). Sun shades are another inexpensive but valuable solution to go in the front and back windshields, especially for those who drive sedans (as I do to save gas money) and who can't open up the back door like in vans and SUVs. Some like battery operated crate fans, but I prefer the inexpensive fans that you can plug into the adapter and have a clip that can secure to the dashboard or window frame. Wire crates give more ventilation than plastic crates, though plastic crates with two doors provide both good ventilation and shade.
Some choose to leave the car engine on so the air conditioning can run. I have heard of at least one instance where the car stopped for some reason while the owner was away and a dog died from heat exhaustion in the car with no windows down. Many also lock their doors while the engine is on. If you do choose this method, it is likely wise to only do with the doors unlocked so other people can assist if there is an emergency (i.e.-your dog is almost comatose from heat exhaustion) and you are not in the vicinity. In other words, if you leave your car on, only do so at the trial or training field where you can have a clear view of your vehicle at all times, not while parking your car at the Cracker Barrel for two hours for the post trial dinner and socializing.
Now that we've talked about safety in the car and crate, what about the dog? Keep clean and fresh water available at all times during warm weather. When holding a trial, particularly when it is more than 5-10 minutes from amenities like a gas station or fast food, the club ideally should provide either water in some form, either from a hose or pump or have water to sell. In addition, someone from the club should call around to area vets to see who is open during the trial weekend so if there is an emergency (heat related or otherwise), the club can direct handlers from out of town where to take their dog. This information should ideally be located on the trial flyer or some other central location. Check on your dog frequently!
Once your dog is done working, walk them out for a 5-10 minute cool down so they are not panting quite so heavily before you offer water. This is particularly important in brachiocephalic breeds (bulldogs, Bostons, boxers, some pit bulls) and deep chested breeds prone to GDV or "bloat" (German shepherds, labs, Dobermans, Great Danes, etc). I am honestly not sure how scientific this is, but one way to tell how hard your dog is panting is to look at their tongue. If it is pink and flat with a rounded appearance at the tip, they are probably panting normally and may not particularly overheated.
Once they become bright red or purplish and have a more rolled over appearance at the edges with the tip of the tongue looking "sharper" or more like a scoop, they may be getting overheated and it's time for a break.
Having known several trainers and owners whose dogs have died of GDV (gastric dilation and volvulus or "bloat"), offering a large amount of water right after work is not ideal. Until the average German shepherd or lab has slowed down in panting after work with a cool down, only offer perhaps half a cup of water at a time until they cool down further. Once they have cooled down significantly and are not panting as hard, more water can steadily be offered.
Watch for other signs, such as tacky gums, the skin between their ears on their head not being as elastic or forming a "tent" where there shouldn't be one, increased heart rate (180+ beats per minute for medium to large dogs), lethargy, and rectal body temperature of 103 F+. The BEST treatment of dogs with heat exhaustion, besides prevention, is under some debate from emergency and critical care practitioners. Unfortunately, most of what we know is from the human literature and humans cool themselves by sweating. Other than a small amount of sweat produced by glands on their paw pads, dogs do not sweat and depend more on panting. This is why boxers, some pit bulls, and other brachiocephalic breeds should be watched very closely as the cooling mechanisms in the nasal passages has been essentially squashed. Some training clubs will keep a filled kiddie pool for the dogs to get in after working in the high heat of the summer. One school of thought says to not completely wet the dog down on its back so heat can still escape from the top.
If you notice signs of heat exhaustion in your working dog, what should you do? Act quickly! Just like humans, these can progress into seizures, coma, or death. These dogs should be moved to a cool shaded location with a fan blowing on them directly. A kiddie pool or bath tub is nice to have on hand to wet the dog down but do not submerge them in ice water. Most authorities state this will cause vasoconstriction of the blood vessels near the skin from the cold, but hold in the rest of the heat of the body. Cold packs can be placed under the arm pits and in the groin area of front and back legs while the dog is being transported to a vet. At the vet, they will likely start the dog on IV fluids and further the cooling process in a slow way to avoid what is called "rebound hypothermia" where the body's temperature dips below 100 F to compensate. As emergencies, these episodes are harrowing, costly, and upsetting. Accidents do happen, but keeping safety in mind when training and trialing your working or performance dog will more than pay for itself.
Many handlers want to give their dogs diet supplements to get them into tip top condition for competition. And many companies will be glad to take your money for said supplements! Ignore the temptation for an "easy fix" and spend less money and more time on conditioning. Please note I am not suggesting skimping on quality nutrition. We will address the nutritional needs of working and performance dogs in later entries ad nauseum (my favorite topic!). But in general, keeping a dog well hydrated and bringing them up gradually to a plateau of performance during trial season is going to be your best bet.
The main goal of today's entry is safety. Most handlers are excellent at being aware of the concerns of overheating their dogs. However, at the dock diving trial I was at last week, I saw a Chesapeake Bay retriever in a sedan with the windows only cracked about 2-3 inches on each and it was over 80 F. So a large part of hot weather safety is regulating the temperature of where the dog is when she's not on the training field. Agility or rally classes tend to be no more than an hour or so, but Schutzhund training can be a nearly all day affair with some clubs. The savvy handler will park his or her vehicle under shade and especially before a trial, shady spots are under almost as much competition as the action under the field. So how do you make your own shade if there is none? Basic 9 ft x 9 ft canopy tents are only about $50-60 from big box stores and most go up with a minimum of fuss for guaranteed all day shade (just watch the wind as they can blow away!). Sun shades are another inexpensive but valuable solution to go in the front and back windshields, especially for those who drive sedans (as I do to save gas money) and who can't open up the back door like in vans and SUVs. Some like battery operated crate fans, but I prefer the inexpensive fans that you can plug into the adapter and have a clip that can secure to the dashboard or window frame. Wire crates give more ventilation than plastic crates, though plastic crates with two doors provide both good ventilation and shade.
Some choose to leave the car engine on so the air conditioning can run. I have heard of at least one instance where the car stopped for some reason while the owner was away and a dog died from heat exhaustion in the car with no windows down. Many also lock their doors while the engine is on. If you do choose this method, it is likely wise to only do with the doors unlocked so other people can assist if there is an emergency (i.e.-your dog is almost comatose from heat exhaustion) and you are not in the vicinity. In other words, if you leave your car on, only do so at the trial or training field where you can have a clear view of your vehicle at all times, not while parking your car at the Cracker Barrel for two hours for the post trial dinner and socializing.
Now that we've talked about safety in the car and crate, what about the dog? Keep clean and fresh water available at all times during warm weather. When holding a trial, particularly when it is more than 5-10 minutes from amenities like a gas station or fast food, the club ideally should provide either water in some form, either from a hose or pump or have water to sell. In addition, someone from the club should call around to area vets to see who is open during the trial weekend so if there is an emergency (heat related or otherwise), the club can direct handlers from out of town where to take their dog. This information should ideally be located on the trial flyer or some other central location. Check on your dog frequently!
Once your dog is done working, walk them out for a 5-10 minute cool down so they are not panting quite so heavily before you offer water. This is particularly important in brachiocephalic breeds (bulldogs, Bostons, boxers, some pit bulls) and deep chested breeds prone to GDV or "bloat" (German shepherds, labs, Dobermans, Great Danes, etc). I am honestly not sure how scientific this is, but one way to tell how hard your dog is panting is to look at their tongue. If it is pink and flat with a rounded appearance at the tip, they are probably panting normally and may not particularly overheated.
Once they become bright red or purplish and have a more rolled over appearance at the edges with the tip of the tongue looking "sharper" or more like a scoop, they may be getting overheated and it's time for a break.
Having known several trainers and owners whose dogs have died of GDV (gastric dilation and volvulus or "bloat"), offering a large amount of water right after work is not ideal. Until the average German shepherd or lab has slowed down in panting after work with a cool down, only offer perhaps half a cup of water at a time until they cool down further. Once they have cooled down significantly and are not panting as hard, more water can steadily be offered.
Watch for other signs, such as tacky gums, the skin between their ears on their head not being as elastic or forming a "tent" where there shouldn't be one, increased heart rate (180+ beats per minute for medium to large dogs), lethargy, and rectal body temperature of 103 F+. The BEST treatment of dogs with heat exhaustion, besides prevention, is under some debate from emergency and critical care practitioners. Unfortunately, most of what we know is from the human literature and humans cool themselves by sweating. Other than a small amount of sweat produced by glands on their paw pads, dogs do not sweat and depend more on panting. This is why boxers, some pit bulls, and other brachiocephalic breeds should be watched very closely as the cooling mechanisms in the nasal passages has been essentially squashed. Some training clubs will keep a filled kiddie pool for the dogs to get in after working in the high heat of the summer. One school of thought says to not completely wet the dog down on its back so heat can still escape from the top.
If you notice signs of heat exhaustion in your working dog, what should you do? Act quickly! Just like humans, these can progress into seizures, coma, or death. These dogs should be moved to a cool shaded location with a fan blowing on them directly. A kiddie pool or bath tub is nice to have on hand to wet the dog down but do not submerge them in ice water. Most authorities state this will cause vasoconstriction of the blood vessels near the skin from the cold, but hold in the rest of the heat of the body. Cold packs can be placed under the arm pits and in the groin area of front and back legs while the dog is being transported to a vet. At the vet, they will likely start the dog on IV fluids and further the cooling process in a slow way to avoid what is called "rebound hypothermia" where the body's temperature dips below 100 F to compensate. As emergencies, these episodes are harrowing, costly, and upsetting. Accidents do happen, but keeping safety in mind when training and trialing your working or performance dog will more than pay for itself.
Thursday, May 19, 2011
I Need a Specialist!
As a disclaimer, this is absolutely not a knock against any veterinary general practitioner! For many, many years the GP would do (and still does!) many surgeries and procedures a human GP would never dream of doing. Can you imagine a human GP doing a major abdominal surgery like a hysterectomy (spay)? However, some issues are likely best seen by a specialist and a good general practitioner knows when to refer. While specialists are usually more expensive to go see than a general practitioner, it can be very valuable for the livelihood of your working or performance dog to not delay in seeing a specialist given the time and money you have put into your dog.
In veterinary medicine, to call yourself a specialist, you must attend undergraduate college for four years and four years of veterinary medical school. After vet school, most candidates complete one or more years in a rotating internship where they see additional cases in a broad variety of specialties typically either at an academic teaching hospital or a larger private practice. After the internship, a residency in a specialty usually between two and four years depending on the specialty is completed and candidates sit for a board exam. Then they can be called a specialist once they pass the strenuous board exam.
Specialties in veterinary medicine are just about as broad as in human medicine and can range from anesthesiology, dentistry, internal medicine, and radiology to neurosurgery, radiation oncology, and zoo medicine and surgery. There are general practitioners with special interests in certain areas (for instance, my special interests are in nutrition, sports medicine, and reproduction) that go to continuing education to further hone their skills, but these cannot be called "specialists."
So how does one find a specialist for their dog? Ideally, your local vet can help them locate and refer you to a specialist. This is helpful as your local vet will have seen your dog progressively for the issue and can relay them to the specialist along with sending over necessary medical history, radiographs (x-rays), and so on. But if you're not sure where to turn, here are a few common "colleges" (kind of like the overseeing governing boards for a certain specialty) where you can look up local specialties.
American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (includes internal medicine, neurology, cardiology, oncology)
http://www.acvim.org/websites/acvim/index.php?p=3
American College of Veterinary Surgeons
http://www.acvs.org/AboutTheACVS/DiplomateDirectory/
American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation
http://vsmr.org.p11.hostingprod.com/diplomates.html
American College of Veterinary Nutrition
http://www.acvn.org/site/view/58670_ACVNMemberDiplomates.pml
American College of Ophthalmology
http://www.acvo.org/new/diplomates/Dip1.shtml
American Veterinary Dental College:
http://www.avdc-dms.org/dms/list/diplomates.cfm?CFID=11396951&CFTOKEN=53424962
The preceding list is not exhaustive and there are many other specialties out there. In addition to the specific specialty colleges, the nearest veterinary teaching hospital is also a good place to inquire.
http://www.avma.org/education/cvea/colleges_accredited/colleges_accredited.asp
In veterinary medicine, to call yourself a specialist, you must attend undergraduate college for four years and four years of veterinary medical school. After vet school, most candidates complete one or more years in a rotating internship where they see additional cases in a broad variety of specialties typically either at an academic teaching hospital or a larger private practice. After the internship, a residency in a specialty usually between two and four years depending on the specialty is completed and candidates sit for a board exam. Then they can be called a specialist once they pass the strenuous board exam.
Specialties in veterinary medicine are just about as broad as in human medicine and can range from anesthesiology, dentistry, internal medicine, and radiology to neurosurgery, radiation oncology, and zoo medicine and surgery. There are general practitioners with special interests in certain areas (for instance, my special interests are in nutrition, sports medicine, and reproduction) that go to continuing education to further hone their skills, but these cannot be called "specialists."
So how does one find a specialist for their dog? Ideally, your local vet can help them locate and refer you to a specialist. This is helpful as your local vet will have seen your dog progressively for the issue and can relay them to the specialist along with sending over necessary medical history, radiographs (x-rays), and so on. But if you're not sure where to turn, here are a few common "colleges" (kind of like the overseeing governing boards for a certain specialty) where you can look up local specialties.
American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (includes internal medicine, neurology, cardiology, oncology)
http://www.acvim.org/websites/acvim/index.php?p=3
American College of Veterinary Surgeons
http://www.acvs.org/AboutTheACVS/DiplomateDirectory/
American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation
http://vsmr.org.p11.hostingprod.com/diplomates.html
American College of Veterinary Nutrition
http://www.acvn.org/site/view/58670_ACVNMemberDiplomates.pml
American College of Ophthalmology
http://www.acvo.org/new/diplomates/Dip1.shtml
American Veterinary Dental College:
http://www.avdc-dms.org/dms/list/diplomates.cfm?CFID=11396951&CFTOKEN=53424962
The preceding list is not exhaustive and there are many other specialties out there. In addition to the specific specialty colleges, the nearest veterinary teaching hospital is also a good place to inquire.
http://www.avma.org/education/cvea/colleges_accredited/colleges_accredited.asp
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